
April 03, 2025
April 03, 2025
Written by Andy Green & Felix Scholz
The Cartier Releases from Watches & Wonders 2025
When it comes to fine watchmaking, Cartier excels. The Maison — as it is known — combines more than a century of experience in watchmaking with a flawless pedigree in fine jewellery. This harmony of craft and design adds up to some exceptional creations. Cartier is renowned for its excellence as a watchmaker of shapes, as well as being a master of transformative objects.
Understandably, this leads to high expectations, and we’re excited to say that Cartier’s 2025 collection, which has just been unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025 in Geneva, does not disappoint.
A New Size for the Tank Louis Cartier
Few watches can match the powerful combination of design, history, and elegance of the Cartier Tank. The very first Tank, known today as the Tank Normale, was released in 1917. A few years later, in 1922, The Tank Louis Cartier debuted, offering a design that many believe is the ultimate Cartier Tank. With its softly rounded brancards, pure geometry and unmistakable combination of Roman numerals with blued sword-shape hands, the Tank Louis Cartier is an icon of elegance.
The big change this year is the size. Cartier has debuted two new Tank LC models, one in yellow gold and one in rose gold, in an XL size. On paper, the dimensions are 38.1mm from top to bottom and 27.75mm wide, with a case height of 8.8mm. On the wrist, the result is that same classic Tank LC feeling but enhanced. Also enhanced is the automatic calibre, the 1899 MC, a contemporary movement beating inside this iconic design.
This is particularly exciting for fans of the classic Tank LC, who’ve been craving a larger size.
The Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets is made for collectors
In recent years, new releases from the limited and exclusive Cartier Privé collection have become highly anticipated, thanks to faithful reimaginings of models such as the Tonneau and the Tortue. This year, the Maison has opted to shine a light on one of the most enigmatic Cartier Tanks, the Tank à Guichets. This remarkable design, first seen in 1928, does away with the traditional hands and dial layout and instead presents a solid metal face with two windows (In French, Guichet refers to a small window), one of which displays a jump hour and the other a dragging minute display.
The design is, essentially, a digital display — but not one powered by batteries. The movement here is the specially designed 9755 MC, a manual wind manufacture calibre. This incredible design is presented in yellow gold, rose gold and platinum models, with another limited edition platinum version that presents a new twist on the design, turning the digital readout 90 degrees. Regardless of which version you prefer, the Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets perfectly balances thoughtful design with peerless watchmaking.
Gem-set takes on the Precious Panthère
The Panthère de Cartier is a quintessential jewellery watch — a slender watch that takes its name from the supple, feline movement of its bracelet. So it’s only fitting that Cartier has given this popular design a precious makeover. The Small and medium Panthère de Cartier models in yellow and rose gold now come sprinkled with diamonds. On all models, the bracelets are fully set with brilliant-cut diamonds, while the cases are semi-pavé set. All are equally stunning.
Even more special is the remarkable rose gold version with a truly wild design. With a dial evoking the stripes of the zebra in diamonds and black lacquer and a case and bracelet displaying the stripes of the tiger in spessartites, brown and black lacquer and hundreds of diamonds, this is an exuberant expression of everything that makes Cartier remarkable.
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